Paradisiacle Perhentian

After a compilation of transport including flights from Cairns to Coolangatta, Coolangatta to Kuala Lumpur, and Kuala Lumpur to Kota Bharu, followed by an hour taxi, and 30 minutes in a speed boat across the South China Sea, we find ourselves in the Perhentian Islands. There are two islands in this magical group, the “small island” (Palau Kecil) and the “big island” (Palau Besar). We chose to stay on Kecil since it is more geared to the budget traveler and is less dominated by tourists and resorts. This place really can’t be compared to anywhere else we’ve been. Upon arrival we were both awe struck and all Brandon could say was “Wow, this place is paradise”…it really is. The water is crystal clear for at least 100 meters out followed by shade upon shade of stunning turquoise. The shoreline is lined with secluded white sand beaches, scenic boulders, and tropical vegetation. This place is island living at its best. Two years ago the accommodations on offer were nothing more than Malaysian bungalows with bug netting and a fan-if you were lucky. With many new properties popping up, seeking a little more comfort, we opted to stay at a brand new place which includes hot water, TV, and AC. We don’t usually mind roughing it a bit but seeing as we are rounding the home stretch of the trip we are stepping it up and splurging for luxury here and there. This is definitely the kind of place people come for a week and stay the whole season. There is an impressive chilled out vibe, the locals here are friendly and super hospitable, and the surroundings are picture perfect. After 3 months in Australia, penny pinching and self catering, there is a striking contrast being back in Asia living like royalty on a poor man’s pocketbook. There are nightly BBQs serving a variety of fresh caught fish and seafood and for a few bucks we couldn’t ask for more.

Seeing as we are dealing with a low-tech island in Malaysia, it is almost impossible to make advance reservations for any of the accommodations in the Perhentians. Upon arrival we booked in for 4 nights as the place we were staying was full beginning the 24th. We enquired with reception of nearly every place on the island in order to secure a room for the remaining 3 days of our stay but each place told us that they didn’t know if they had availability and that we would have to check the morning of the 24th. We continued to ask here and there over our first 4 days but still having no luck we booked the water taxi back to the mainland as a backup. After a typhoon class rain storm the night of the 23rd, we were sure that some people would unexpectedly check out leaving an opening for us. We planned to go diving on the 24th, one in the morning followed by a second dive in the afternoon. We were up early and headed across the island for our dive which started at 9am. As we assumed the visibility on this dive was limited due to the run-off from the intense rain showers the previous night. The variety of life however, was plentiful and we caught a glimpse of some new and unique underwater species including giant Titan Trigger Fish, tons of Nudibranchs, as well as a Blue Spotted Sting Ray. After our dive we were on a mission to find a place to sleep for the night. We noticed tons of people arriving by boat; most only to wander the beaches in the extreme heat and then re-board a boat returning to the mainland. We ran around like mad people but after checking with each place on both sides of the island, it became clear to us that we were totally out of luck. We were pretty disappointed but our only choice was to cancel our afternoon dive and return to the mainland like the rest of them. Having a flight booked from Kota Bharu in only 3 days, we weren’t sitting on enough time to venture elsewhere so we booked into a place just beyond the Kuala Besut Jetty. This town is tiny consisting of a few booking offices, a couple local restaurants and a mosque. I think that 3 nights here must be a record stay for foreigners because even the woman at our guest house asked us why we were staying for so long. We started our time here with a positive attitude enjoying the fact that we were seeing a different side of the country over the next few days. We figured we could stand to learn a little more about the Muslim faith which dominates the region. We laid very low for our time in Kuala Besut. Our most adventurous day took us on a 12km return walk to the closest supermarket. We browsed the bric-a-brac and picked up some fresh fruit and veggies to keep us going for the 3 days. Amongst the regular local crowd, we enjoyed a couple good meals at the small seaside restaurant. Since we weren’t able to enjoy our time on the island, we found a little satisfaction in the crumby weather which filled those 3 days. The clouds didn’t break and it rained sporadically, we felt like we hadn’t missed out on too much paradise on the island.

July 17th-Brandon's B-day

We would spend our final day in Cairns celebrating Brandon’s Birthday. Yet another great day in the Land of Oz, today was all about being spoiled. First, we sat down at a local café for a late breakfast. We had a great meal including home made falafel, gourmet focaccia sandwich, and delicious thick milkshakes. It was such a nice treat to eat out since we had been self catering and eating pretty simply for the last 3 months. In the afternoon we went to the movies and laughed our asses off at Sasha Cohen’s Bruno. We had scoped out some nice places to eat and agreed to sit down at a nice restaurant specializing in upscale aboriginal/bush food, Ochre. With only a couple days left in the country, it was time for us to taste the local delicacies which we had yet to try. Our meal started with an Australian Antipasto plate. This tasting platter was made up of: Dukka crusted Kangaroo, Emu paté, Crocodile stuffed wontons, pickled beat with Kingfish, and rich goat cheese. The plate included many traditional bush spices and ingredients and all were incredibly delicious. For our main course we went with the night’s special of Wallaby shank with cardamom spiced potato and traditional bush salsa. We were stuffed and satisfied. The meal was awesome, a true taste of fine Australian tucker. Our night ended with a lovely stroll back to our accommodation. We packed up our things and prepared to leave in a few hours to catch our early morning flight to the Coolangatta coast.

Agincourt Ribbon Reefs

Since we were without wheels after giving up Fran, we didn’t have too much planned for our last week in the country. We just enjoyed the city, the sun, and living a care free life. Everything that could have caused issues leading up to our departure had gone smoothly and this was great because we really were able to enjoy a stress-free final week. We had decided in advance to hold off on our trip out onto the Great Barrier Reef in order to add some excitement to our vehicle-less days. We decided we would leave ourselves a nice 2-day window between diving and flying so we reserved 2 spots on the reputable SilverSonic vessel on July 16th, departing from Port Douglas. The general rule for diving in Australia is that the outer and more northerly areas of the reef are most stunning and pristine. We really wanted this dive to be the experience of our lives so we opted for what appeared to be a more high-end option taking us to the Agincourt Ribbon Reefs. Since the weather had been great for a couple days, we were sure visibility would be high so we decided to rent an underwater camera. Our day started with a luxury coach trip to Port Douglas about an hour away from Cairns. It was such a relief to take part in an ultra organized tour, polar opposite to much of the tours we participated in, in Asia. The vessel was huge which kept it from feeling overcrowded and maintained a nice smooth ride to the outer reef. The area where we would be diving, Agincourt Reef, is located along the continental shelf which translates to incredible diversity of life and pristine conditions. We decided to make the most of the day so we would do the limit of 3 dives over the course of the day. Taking in 3 different locations, we were thrilled with the quality of the experience. This was by-far the most pristine underwater world either of us had experienced. This met even the highest of expectations and over the course of the three dives we saw countless varieties of fish and healthy, colourful coral. The last dive of the day was truly a highlight as we partook in our first drift dive. Since we were located on the outside edge of the reef for our final dive, the swells were approaching 3 meters in height. Equipment and people were strewn about the vessel as we were gearing up. Anxiety levels peaked; the certified divers jumped into the insanely strong current before the boat relocated to a more tranquil area for the others. Upon entry we had to descend quickly to avoid being swept out into the deep blue by the ferocious waves. The first 100 meters were tough because we were fighting the natural underwater current. Our bodies became tired swimming against the tow but once we rounded a massive reef pinnacle we were able to relax and travel with the current for the remainder of the dive. Just as we rounded the coral mass into the “safety zone”, 2 large green turtles swam along side our group. We watched in awe as they went about their business with such grace. Being on the edge of the reef, we were warned to keep an eye on the deep dark blue because these kinds of location can attract sharks. Lucky for us, no man eaters approached by we did see 2 moderately sized reef sharks which was excitement enough. These dives were awesome! Totally warn out after an action packed; we were ready to sleep like babies after the bus ride back to our bed.

Last Journeys in our Sweet 1979 Toyota Hiace

Along our alternate route we made a few quick stops to take in a couple popular tourist sights. One of these must-sees included the views of the emerald green waters at Mossman Gorge. After whipping up lunch at the Gorge we continued onto Cairns where we made a quick stop. From there we traveled inland through the countryside until we arrived at the infamous Cathedral Fig Tree. Fig trees are found all over Australia but this one in particular is more than 500 years old and is a monster of a plant. The tree stands 48 meters tall and it would take more than 24 people linking arms to span its girth. Standing next to it you feel like a teeny tiny, insignificant creature in the rainforest. After ogling the tree for a while we moved on to the Millaa Millaa lookout for sunset. This spot is surrounded by miles of rolling green hills and on a clear day you can see all the way to the ocean. After a peaceful night camping in Millaa Millaa, we carried on to Crawford’s Lookout which towers over the rainforest at 2000 meters above the forest floor. There was a walking track which extended from the lookout so we figured we would venture on a little trek. The first section of the trail led us to a grassy area overlooking the mouth of 3 rivers as well as the forest below. We had the place to ourselves for hours and relaxed allowing the rainforest to come alive around us. From here we decided to do some further exploring so we walked down to the river’s edge. After taking in some more of Mother Nature’s wonder, we started back up the track to the car. The route down was an easy going descent but we were completely exhausted by the time we climbed back up to the parking area. We were sweaty and our bodies were like rubber. We deserved a healthy fill of food and after refueling our bodies we were back on the trail towards the Babinda Boulders. We planned to camp the night at this impressive gorge but unfortunately the camping area was full so after a quick stop, we looped back and traveled the short distance back to Cairns. Lucky for us we were able to bump up our reservation and checked into the accommodations which we had booked starting the following night. This gave us the opportunity to take our time moving out of Fran and into the apartment accommodations where we would spend the following week. We drove into town the following day around noon and met up with Amy and Ewan to make the final hand off. Quick and easy, cash for keys, we made our exchange and away we went on foot. Our next stop that afternoon was at the mall for a little free spending. We picked up a couple CDs and a few articles of clothing and wrapped up our day with a date night at the movies.

Daintree and Cape Tribulation

The area of the northern cape of Queensland is some of the most beautiful land we have set our eyes on. Our journey began from Cairns and we planned to head to our most northerly destination first, followed by stops along the route as we travelled south back to Cairns. As we drove along the highway we were overwhelmed by the massive beauty around us. This section of the highway remains tight to the coastline which makes for spectacular views across the ocean and along the pristine, unspoiled beaches scattered on the shore. As we drove, we couldn’t resist stopping at the popular Rex Lookout. We couldn’t have asked for a clearer day, the skies were impeccably blue and the sun was shining. This spot is bursting with the kind of scenery that leaves you jaw dropped. You find yourself looking away in disbelief only to refocus on the absolutely flawless backdrop. I think what keeps this area looking so pristine is that the region is World Heritage Listed for the Great Barrier Reef as well as the Rainforests which meet the shores. Development has been backed off the “absolute beachfront” here leaving a buffer of rich greenery along every beach. After being blown away by some of the first views, we stopped at the Port Douglas lookout which must be one of the loveliest views overlooking a beach town. After stocking up on supplies in Port “Dougy”, we set out for Cape Trib. In order to get to Cape Tribulation, we had to travel across the Daintree River on the car ferry. This is essentially a platform which transports vehicles from one side of the river to the other, back and forth every 15 minutes. After our 2 minute putt across the mangrove-lined river we were ready to start our adventures through the oldest rainforest in the world, the Daintree Rainforest. Conventional vehicles (those lacking 4WD) can only drive as far as Cape Tribulation even though dirt roads continue all the way to the north shore. This area was discovered by Captain James Cook in 1770 and incredibly enough, the views remain true to what he first explored so many years ago. Although there are a few accommodations and common conveniences none of these properties have compromised the natural area and therefore the coastline remains seamless. We stopped for the night at Myall Beach at Cape Tribulation Camping. We spent the day on the untouched white sands of Myall Beach but decided to check out the following morning since the place was way overpriced and the facilities here were very much sub-pare. We checked into the Rainforest Jungle Lodge where we were able to get power for the van and adequate facilities. We walked along Myall Beach taking in the incredible sights around us. We decided we would embark on a small hike in order to take a look at Cape Tribulation Beach. Yet another unspoiled area with top notch views. After another peaceful sleep deep in the rainforest we woke to a rather gloomy day which inspired us to venture elsewhere. There were a few places which had sparked our interest so we decided to make a couple stops before venturing back to Cairns to hand over our baby.

Rockin' out in the Rainforest

I know the term “Melting Pot” is way overused but I really think it’s appropriate when describing the Australian scene. Maybe the place has a strong identity and feeling of independence because of its geographical isolation, for whatever the reason there are many strong and distinctive sub-cultures here. The population on the whole seems fairly artistic, creative, and entrepreneurial. This is definitely what gives Australia a lot of its character and charm. Coming from Canada, we can relate very much to the pace of life and similar overall social aspects. Over here however, there seems to be less of a “mold” to follow when compared to our highly Americanized province, and nation. There seem to be niche communities all over the country here. One place where we really felt the freedoms on offer in this glorious land, was the Kuranda Roots Festival. We decided, on a whim, to get tickets since we had missed all the other events on tour here. We weren’t sure what to expect but from our previous Aussie experience we thought it to be laid back, interesting, and more than likely a good time. We checked into the Kuranda Rainforest Park where we would spend the following 2 nights of the festival. We were a short and very pleasant, rainforest walk away from the Kuranda Amphitheatre. We walked around town to take in some of the sights. After all the town of Kuranda is a classic tourist town. It has all the attractions from scenic railway, butterfly sanctuary, bird aviary, snake and bat farms, the local candy shop, and countless souvenir shops. The place is famous for its rainforest markets which are super cool. We tasted some of the splendid local fruit wines; lychee, mango, lime and spicy chili…all delish. We stopped at the general store and finally at the Bottle-O to pick up the weekend beverages. The evening concert didn’t start until 6:30 so we figured we would have dinner and a couple drinks, and head over. To our pleasant surprise, as Friday afternoon was winding down, we already had 3 interested buyers for the van. Buyers were eager, wanting the van immediately and offering us cash over the phone. We realized that we would have more say in when, where, and to whom we sold so we informed all those interested that we would be back in Cairns Sunday afternoon, giving everyone a chance to view and test-drive. I guess we got a little too into the “Goon” (Big box of cheap Australian wine) because we didn’t make it to any of the pre-festival events on the Friday night. After having our own private party and some good laughs, we headed to bed fairly early to get a jump start on the following day.

Early Saturday we had a light breakfast and walked down to the amphitheatre. The weather was great and from the buzz around town we could tell we were in for an awesome day. As we entered the park we were impressed from the start. There were three separate stages showcasing local Reggae and Dub talent. This place was unique and cool to say the least. Continuing the rainforest theme, the tiered seating was carved into the earth and the beats reverberated within the natural surrounding forest. There were several local artisan stalls selling a variety of handy crafts as well as an assortment of healthy gourmet foods. We chilled out all afternoon watching and dancing along to one impressive act after the other. The energy here was warm and overwhelming as hundreds of people, young and old, moved to the music. The festivities carried on straight through the day and after a quick stop back at the van park to bundle up for the cool Rainforest evening, we were back at the theatre for the night show. The crowd had doubled or even tripled in size after dark, all in anticipation of the headliner, Ash Grunwald. The party crowd was wild as he pounded through his set, everyone was happy and the place was glowing like a modern day Woodstock. We had such a great weekend and were so happy that we decided to take part in this annual event. By weekend’s end we had at least 8 people who would meet us for the van. One buyer in particular was super keen and made sure she was the first to see it come Sunday afternoon. She turned out to be a nice Scottish girl traveling with her brother and after taking a look and a quick spin, they were anxious about missing their chance once others arrived so they made us an offer on the spot. We were still counting on having the van for another week in order to travel north into Daintree and Cape Trib so when they agreed to wait until the 12th plus give us what we were asking…we couldn’t refuse. With a handshake and a down payment, we called off all other potential buyers. We knew Fran was the best vehicle listed in her price range but we were impressed that she sold to the very first person to take a look. Fran served us well as transportation and accommodation and she gave us the ability to self-cater which saved us hundreds of dollars. She turned out to be a great investment fetching exactly what we had paid plus an extra $100. Even though it was sad to let her go, we celebrated our ongoing good luck and sudden influx of cash, with a pizza party and would start our northerly road trip the following morning.

Love and let go...

Cairns, Australia really is a lovely place. The city is fairly large yet maintains a rather low-key charm. The buildings remain to code, all low-rise, with so many incredible places to dine, drink, party, shop, anything. It’s funny because nearly every place along the coast has a beach close to the main street or often the beach is the main street. Cairns however, has a neatly landscaped harbour with a large artificial lagoon swimming area. The lagoon extends into a park with an extensive promenade attracting a variety of enthusiasts. We actually arrived in town the same day as a U.S. Naval War Ship, the largest ever to dock in the scenic Cairns Harbour. Since our arrival US Sailors have flooded the recreational area along the esplanade, usually jogging or cruising the streets in uniform attracting a fair bit of attention. We spent a few days in Cairns knowing that soon enough we would have to put our van up for sale. Winter, particularly July and August, are the high season months for Cairns and we immediately noticed that the place was full of tourists and backpackers. The notice boards around town were full of ads selling vehicles of all kinds. We didn’t want to leave it too late so we figured we would give ourselves about 2 weeks to turn her over. For the next couple weeks Cairns would act as a home base and we had a few small trips planned from here. We didn’t want to travel too far away incase we had to show off Fran. The first weekend in July we had plans to attend the Kuranda Roots Festival about 30 minutes out of town. Seeing as we were scheduled to fly in exactly 2 weeks, we thought we would post our ad before leaving for the festival just to see how much initial interest she would fetch. We picked up a pay-as-you-go cell phone to field interested buyers’ calls and put together an impressive flyer. Friday morning before leaving for Kuranda, we walked around the main streets of Cairns locating 16 different bulletin boards where we placed our ad…here’s hoping, fingers crossed…