Even though we were really enjoying this unique view of Queensland and NSW, we were finding the temperatures just too cold for us. We even had to stop in Armidale and buy some woollies. We needed some thicker layers but set ourselves a $15 limit each to warm up (not wanting to waste money as we hoped we wouldn’t need the items for the long term). I picked up a hat and some fleece trackers, Brandon got a tuque(Aussie=beanie), some stylish jeans, and we also bought matching thick, wool slipper-socks. It was getting pretty darn cold at night and on more than a few occasions we had to wear all our buys to bed with everything else we had to stay warm. We knew we would need to make a dramatic move towards warmth if we were going to be comfortable and happy. We were lucky to inherit an awesome Australian camping guide. We plotted our route back towards the coast according to attractions and recommended camping spots along the way. Because of the mountainous lush tropics of the area and the overall vastness of the country, there are a number of secluded camping spots and many of them are free. We took full advantage as a means of saving money for the time being before hitting the sun shiny coast. We connected with the coast at Coffs Harbour but the massive weather system which had been drowning the area for weeks was still lingering so we pushed on through Byron Bay and stopped for the night off the coast in Lismore.
The following day we travelled about 300km, we try not to make driving the bulk of any day. Leaving Lismore we stopped in a couple towns as we travelled the small country roads. Mid afternoon we arrived in Noosa and the sun shined for what seemed to be the first day in a while. Tons of other people appeared to be as happy to see the sun as we were. The area was busy with tourists and locals alike. There were hundreds of surfers making the most of the gorgeous day not to mention all the other folks who were walking, biking, swimming, etc. We took a hike through the Noosa National Park which is full of spectacular scenery and beaches. Satisfied and Vitamin D boosted, we left town as the sun was setting. We stayed the night for free just outside Rainbow Beach at a tiny general store. We were the only people at this stop, which seemed crazy to us since the facilities were great. Waking in the morning, a beach day didn’t seem promising so we skipped our planned stop at Rainbow Beach and motored onto a camping spot at Lake Monduran. We laid low here for a couple days before we continued to Agnes Waters and the Town of 1770. Although these spots are scenic and fairly quiet, we would only able to stay one night since unbeknownst to us; we had pulled in on the Friday of the Queen’s B-day long weekend.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Friday, June 26, 2009
Inland Gems...
We were pumped to officially be on the road since we hadn’t slept a night in the van since we picked her up and headed for Geoff’s. The sun was shining and we were eager to arrive in our first destination. It was mid afternoon when we pulled into the tiny town of Goondiwindy, Gundy as it’s referred to by locals. We had read that there was a drive-in theatre so we were keen to find out the details for a great night out in our new wheels. We followed the town map and spotted the over sized screens in the distance. We pulled in to find a Mother with her Daughter playing on a small swing-set. As Aussies do the woman asked “Are ya alright?”. We inquired about the drive-in and with a laugh she told us it had been closed down for nearly 15 years. Well, we’re not tourists are we?...From there we checked into a basic van park and planned just to stop in for the night. The owner was blessed with the gift of gab and filled us in on most everything we needed to know about “Gundy”. Taking her advice, we started out on the riverside path leading through town. The river in town marks the state border between New South Whales and Queensland. We were just in time for the gorgeous sunset and were both totally impressed by the riverside activity as the sun went down. There were hundreds of birds of countless varieties and the hour or so which we spent along the river had made it all worth the drive.
Another highlight to this inland loop, was the opal mining community of Lightning Ridge. The most westerly point reached on our track, the area was full of character and reminded us of images we had come to know from classic western films. The town was equipped with little shops, a wild-west-styled tavern, the only thing it seemed to be missing were the tumbleweeds. The land around the region is vast yet gorgeous with emptiness. We decided to bunker down at an old cattle ranch called Lorne Station (Station in Aussie=Ranch). It was like being in the middle of no where. Over the few days we stayed there we noticed that the prospect of finding a rare profitable opal attracts an eclectic crowd. It’s quite common for people to mine the land with hope until frustration finally leads to their abandoning of the land, mine shafts, and dreams. It would have been nice to discover our own one of a kind piece but we left the hard work to the professionals and I bought a gorgeous piece of Queensland Bolder Opal from a local shop, the Opal Cave. Opal dates back to dinosaur times and is a form of silica, chemically similar to quarts. The colours produced by the opal are a result of the silica trapping white light and splitting that light into different shades. Bolder Opal can be fossilized organic matter, (bones, shells, etc.) and can be thousands or even millions of years old. There are many varieties and the Australian Outback produces 95% of the worlds Opal. My ring has colourful secrets to reveal at every angle, I love it.
Shortly after leaving Lightning Ridge we thought it was time to take a dip in the infamous Bore Baths. There are several places here where natural hot springs pump from within the earth, producing natural spouts. Several areas, even public swimming pools, use this hot mineral water for baths. We stopped at Burren Junction where we joined about a dozen older folks for a dip. After a little relaxation and rejuvenation we were back on the road towards Mount Kaputar National Park.
Another highlight to this inland loop, was the opal mining community of Lightning Ridge. The most westerly point reached on our track, the area was full of character and reminded us of images we had come to know from classic western films. The town was equipped with little shops, a wild-west-styled tavern, the only thing it seemed to be missing were the tumbleweeds. The land around the region is vast yet gorgeous with emptiness. We decided to bunker down at an old cattle ranch called Lorne Station (Station in Aussie=Ranch). It was like being in the middle of no where. Over the few days we stayed there we noticed that the prospect of finding a rare profitable opal attracts an eclectic crowd. It’s quite common for people to mine the land with hope until frustration finally leads to their abandoning of the land, mine shafts, and dreams. It would have been nice to discover our own one of a kind piece but we left the hard work to the professionals and I bought a gorgeous piece of Queensland Bolder Opal from a local shop, the Opal Cave. Opal dates back to dinosaur times and is a form of silica, chemically similar to quarts. The colours produced by the opal are a result of the silica trapping white light and splitting that light into different shades. Bolder Opal can be fossilized organic matter, (bones, shells, etc.) and can be thousands or even millions of years old. There are many varieties and the Australian Outback produces 95% of the worlds Opal. My ring has colourful secrets to reveal at every angle, I love it.
Shortly after leaving Lightning Ridge we thought it was time to take a dip in the infamous Bore Baths. There are several places here where natural hot springs pump from within the earth, producing natural spouts. Several areas, even public swimming pools, use this hot mineral water for baths. We stopped at Burren Junction where we joined about a dozen older folks for a dip. After a little relaxation and rejuvenation we were back on the road towards Mount Kaputar National Park.
Soaker of a Start-up
Man, how the time flies. We find ourselves beginning the second leg of our journey, our escape into pure independence as travelers on the open road. Our super cheap flight was on a HUGE plane. The aircraft was a little cramped but it was brand new and suited us just fine. I enjoyed the company of a highly intelligent 4 year old girl from New Zealand who was seated beside me and after a quick sleep (8 hours later) we arrived at the Coolangatta Airport. Basics of our first week here: We arrived in Brisbane with a personal limit of 5 days of car hunting before we would take a bus or rent a car, to van shop elsewhere. We had already picked over the camper vans online on gumtree.com.au which is basically the Australian form of KIJIJI. What we were in search for was an old converted van with big buy-back potential, so we can resell it without a hitch when we leave the country. Basically the auto market in Oz is flooded with old 70’s and 80’s vans which have been suited with a convertible bed, fridge, stove, and sink, all we will need to be highly self sufficient throughout our Aussie travels. Our flight came in on Saturday morning and by the afternoon we had found ourselves the cheapest double in all of Brisbane at $70/night. Pricey, but in Oz and in the city, we were looking at spending $60 a night for a couple bunks in a dorm room at a backpackers. We contacted our first pick and arranged to meet him the following morning at an organic produce market where he and his partner would be selling jewelery. We were eager to get “in” the van ASAP as it was costing us so much to eat out, sleep in the city, etc. Brandon jumped right in as he had to test drive the 1979 Toyota Hiace, oversized with old-school column gear-shifting. In addition to all of these considerations he had to master this on the opposite side of the road. With only a little bit of a natural leftward lean, Brandon eased the old van through the little Brisbane suburb. We had to act fast because we knew she was a steal. Even while we were taking a look at her ourselves, 2 other callers tried to arrange test drives. We had looked for a while and knew what was out there, we told them we wanted it right away and arranged to get her turned over as fast as possible. It took much longer than we had wished but with the two of them wanting to keep the van another week and us hoping to sleep in it the following night, we came to a compromise of Wednesday. This meant we would have to wait 3 more days but we were happy with what we got. We took in some of the city over the next few days. Unfortunately for us, we arrived at the beginning of the largest rainfall in 30 years.
Our last 48 hours in the city were full of rain and when Wednesday came around the precipitation was insane. We couldn’t get away from the city fast enough. We would head about 100km inland in order to pick- up our registration sticker from a fella in nearby Toowoomba. We spent about 3 hours on the highway covering a total of 20km. The rain was bringing the city and entire Central Eastern Coast to a stand still. The waterways swelled and poured onto the highways. Only an hour after we waded through the road hazards, the highways had to be closed, stranding hundreds of people. We really weren’t sure how the rain and flooding would affect our travels but when we stopped to pick up our sticker and were offered dinner and a place to stay for the night, we were happy to accept. Geoff owns a car dealership and has been involved with this particular van for the past couple years. Basically as the van has been passed between owners, most of them being from overseas, Geoff has provided his address as the permanent local address for the ownership. Geoff is incredibly kind and with an extra bed and bathroom we were set. The rain was still falling along the coast and the news was covering stories of extreme flooding and evacuations all throughout the region where we had planned to start our road trip. We stayed with Geoff for 5 days, enjoying all the comforts of having a home and his laid-back style. While Geoff was working we took it easy and became friendly with his two Cockatiels, Susie and Perky Bird. Geoff was even generous enough to loan us a vehicle from his car lot as he suggested we take a couple day trips using his place as a home base. We left out big van parked in his lot and were able to zip around taking in some of the wine and farming regions. Even as far inland as we were, throughout our journeys we encountered many bodies of water which were swollen beyond belief. Since it would still be a while before the rain stopped or the flooding would be cleaned up, with Geoff’s local expertise, we embarked on an alternate route.
Our last 48 hours in the city were full of rain and when Wednesday came around the precipitation was insane. We couldn’t get away from the city fast enough. We would head about 100km inland in order to pick- up our registration sticker from a fella in nearby Toowoomba. We spent about 3 hours on the highway covering a total of 20km. The rain was bringing the city and entire Central Eastern Coast to a stand still. The waterways swelled and poured onto the highways. Only an hour after we waded through the road hazards, the highways had to be closed, stranding hundreds of people. We really weren’t sure how the rain and flooding would affect our travels but when we stopped to pick up our sticker and were offered dinner and a place to stay for the night, we were happy to accept. Geoff owns a car dealership and has been involved with this particular van for the past couple years. Basically as the van has been passed between owners, most of them being from overseas, Geoff has provided his address as the permanent local address for the ownership. Geoff is incredibly kind and with an extra bed and bathroom we were set. The rain was still falling along the coast and the news was covering stories of extreme flooding and evacuations all throughout the region where we had planned to start our road trip. We stayed with Geoff for 5 days, enjoying all the comforts of having a home and his laid-back style. While Geoff was working we took it easy and became friendly with his two Cockatiels, Susie and Perky Bird. Geoff was even generous enough to loan us a vehicle from his car lot as he suggested we take a couple day trips using his place as a home base. We left out big van parked in his lot and were able to zip around taking in some of the wine and farming regions. Even as far inland as we were, throughout our journeys we encountered many bodies of water which were swollen beyond belief. Since it would still be a while before the rain stopped or the flooding would be cleaned up, with Geoff’s local expertise, we embarked on an alternate route.
Chiang Mai->KL->Brisbane
May 14th...13th!
Today we really impressed ourselves. We woke early, showered, packed everything up, arranged for an airport transfer, and then checked out of our room. We were thrilled that they only charged us for 4 nights rather than 5. We were eating breakfast when we questioned how they would have miscalculated the number of nights we stayed with them. Just 15 minutes before we were meant to be picked up, we thought that maybe we should double check today’s date. The two of us ran in opposite directions, one finding out what the heck day it was and the other to double check our flight date online. Like 2 fools (or maybe just two travelers who had become oblivious to the time/day/date) we found that it was only Wednesday, May 13th. We marched back to the front desk, reclaimed our room key, and canceled our airport transportation. No harm done other than that we were both ready to move on, we had made an extra effort to spend all our final Baht the day prior, and now we had an extra day to kill. I guess today was simply a dress rehearsal and by tomorrow we will be more than ready to go…fools. Just one night in Kuala Lumpur, hopefully some fresh haircuts while we’re there, and then Brisbane, Australia, May 16th. We so look forward to starting our next adventures.
After a little of a “misunderstanding/swindle-the-tourist situation” transferring in the city from the KL Airport, we checked back into our new found “second home” in Malaysia. Tropical Guesthouse is located in the Golden Triangle and therefore centrally located in the heart of the city. We found ourselves back in the same room we had stayed a couple months prior when we passed through on our way to Cambodia. We were thrilled to see the same welcoming and cheery hostess, Jennifer. She is a wild Chinese Lady who loves life and loves her youth. She parties hard and loves entertaining foreigners who bunker down in her Tropical Guest House for a night or two or more. Anyway, it was her Birthday the following day and as to be expected there were festivities to be had. We really had planned on heading to bed early in order to get a jump on the day the following morning, seeing some of the city and getting our precious haircuts. Well our simple stop-over turned into one of the most wild nights. The night rolled on into the early hours of the morning as we sat curbside sipping from a grab bag of drinks including some paralyzing Chinese Wine (worst thing we’ve ever tried and apparently if you drink too much you bleed from the nose and eyes…excellent…). This was the most diverse and multicultural social settings we’ve found ourselves in. Along the sidewalk out front of our guesthouse, about a dozen men and women of all ages sat happily around the table. The group was made up of people from Indonesia, Nepal, Iran, China, Singapore, Malaysia, Canada, Finland and maybe others. It was a great night and needless to say the only thing we managed to accomplish the following day was plunk ourselves into a couple salon chairs by the middle of the afternoon. Sidenote: 2 more celebrity treatment haircuts at Thomas and Guys, Kuala Lumpur.
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